We
all knew it was going to be tough challenge moving from
BC to ABC skipping C1. I was late setting off from BC
due various faffing but this was ok as I had already decided
that my approach was going to be slow and steady within
a non oxygen debt strategy. Expected time without breaks
was 7 to 8 hours. My first problem was my camelbak froze
within minutes of leaving despite the new harness but
once I'd settled down to this fact, progress up the icefall
was almost pleasant. Moving on my own about 30 mins behind
the rest I was able to focus on an efficient pace which
did not either stress my breathing or muscles. Using legs
for power and not arms I got into a smooth rhythm and
ultimately caught up with all but Serge before the final
hideous ladder section that takes you onto the heavily
crevassed western cym. Now the sun was up and the warmth
almost instantly thawed my drinking tube. I felt really
good and decided to press on past camp 1. Slowly things
changed and I found I really need to concentrate to keep
going. Manuel and I changed position several times before
we finally made C2. Total elapsed time for me 6 hours.
At least the Sherpa's were impressed. Actually Serge had
made it in just over 5 hours but he paid the price and
looked dreadful. Later he confessed to vomiting and diarrhoea,
he actually did not eat again until BC. Both Manuel and
I were very tired but otherwise in good shape. Next arrived
Ludmilla, her extensive experience showing through, she
was exhausted but otherwise good. Dirk was next and clearly
in bad shape. He later confessed to being close to giving
up at the top of the icefall. Finally half an hour later
Klaus arrived also speechless with exhaustion. We had
all made it but it had taken its toll on our bodies and
our state of mind. We ate, drank gallons of warm lemon
juice Sherpa milk tea and went of to bed at 7.30. By now
it was freezing and windy. The tents were bolted down
as per C1 which was just as well. What followed was one
of the coldest nights I've ever experienced even on Denali.
My sleeping bag has a comfort rating of -40 yet at times
it felt like I was naked despite, thermal, buffalo top
and sallopets, down jacket, hat, gloves, two pairs of
thick socks in my booties and my camelbak filled with
hot lemon tea. Just getting into the sleeping bag is a
small logistical miracle. Eventually I got warm and tried
to concentrate on something other than the mild headache
that had developed not long after I arrived. It was not
bad but it was worrying me a little. The following morning
Serge was up and gone, everyone else followed as quickly
as possible driven by the pain and discomfort of the night.
That is except me. I had made it clear that I was going
for two nights to see how my body reacted at this altitude
and my headache has just reinforced that. I watched Dirk
disappear and suddenly felt quite alone and content. The
day passed quite quickly, me messing around trying various
combinations of gear. I'm still not happy about the camelbak
on summit day. Last thing I want is to be carrying 2 litres
of ice to the summit and back. The two Sherpa at ABC fed
me a fairly nice lunch and then Dinner which was very
spicy and I paid the usual price!!!!!! Not great at -40+
in driving snow, still it stops you hanging around. One
of the most worrying aspects of the first night had been
what's called chanye stoke breathing. From an observers
point of view it sounds like somebody is drawing their
last breath before dying. From the sleepers point of view
it's like a last desperate gasp as you finally suffocate.
Either way its not nice!!! Fortunately this all but disappeared
on the second night. It snowed very heavily during the
night and I began thinking I might get stuck up at 65000m
for a few days but it cleared temporarily just before
dawn. I'm pleased I stayed the extra night. I can see
roughly where we will establish C3 on the Lhotse face
and I'm sure I can make it. From there we will be on Oxygen
. Today I thought I would have a nice walk back down to
BC but first I forgot the PDA Leads and had to hike back
up some 200m which was exhausting and then suffer a windless
decent through the cym and icefall. It's weird because
the air temperature is below freezing but the radiated
heat from the sun makes it feel in the eighties and you
just cook. Arrived back at BC for about 2 just as the
sun went in and the snow started. We have moved up a pace
and only one more trip up to C3 before we complete our
acclimatisation programme and then its down to the valley
to recuperate prior to the final ascent weather permitting.
For the time being however, we are expecting a storm for
a few days so it's time to build back the strength lost
over the last few days.
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