| |
| Modifying my kit and thinking of home |
| Updated:
15th April 2005 |
| |
| Location |
Everest Base Camp |
| Altitude |
5350 |
| Temperature |
-0-10 |
| Weather conditions |
Gusting Wind |
| Wind |
5-50 |
|
| Personal profile |
|
| where 10 is excellent and 1 is not good; |
| Overall Health |
8 |
| Diet |
8 |
| Body Temperature |
9 |
| Bowels |
8 |
| Sleep |
9 |
| Mental Attitude |
9 |
| Team relationships |
7 |
| Physical tiredness |
9 |
| Overall Outlook |
10 |
|
| Highlights |
| Resting
at BC until Monday when we will move up to ABC for a prolonged
acclimatisation period. Lots of debate how best to do this
most of which is hot air. I want to have several sorties
up to 7000 meters by middle of next week. I have modified
my camel back water holder so that I can wear it under my
down jacket as it just freezes within minutes if placed
in my rucksack, even if I fill it with a hot liquid. Good
hydration on summit day is a must. Also modified my neoprene
face mask so that I can drink through it without having
to remove it. Practising doing all key activities with mitts
on which is real eye opener and damned hard.
Removing my mitts on summit day
before the sun is up will mean frostbite.
Last night I watched the temperature drop 40 degrees in a half hour as the sun left my tent. For about 4 hours in the afternoon the tent is like a mini sauna with temperatures up to 25 degrees. For me this the hard part of the expedition, just under half way with no end in sight and missing life in the UK like never before. This was expected, it will pass and I will keep my focus on giving this my best shot!! |
|
| |
| Existing
above 5000 metres |
| Updated: 14th April 2005 |
| |
| Location |
Everest Base Camp |
| Altitude |
5350 |
| Temperature |
-10 |
| Weather conditions |
Calm clear skies |
| Wind |
5 |
|
| Personal profile |
|
| where 10 is excellent and 1 is not good; |
| Overall Health |
8 |
| Diet |
8 |
| Body Temperature |
9 |
| Bowels |
8 |
| Sleep |
9 |
| Mental Attitude |
9 |
| Team relationships |
7 |
| Physical tiredness |
9 |
| Overall Outlook |
10 |
|
| Highlights |
Back in BC recovering from the exhaustion of the last few days. So here are a few practicalities of existing above 5000 meters. Yesterday the temp was so cold I couldn't use my sun cream. I did try and cover vital areas such as my nose with factor 40 lip balm. Until I went to bed I thought I had got away with it as my face did not seem too red. I applied after sun as per normal to help re-hydrate my face Then in the middle of the night I felt liquid running down my face and into my ears. My face had exploded in blisters which were bursting releasing water like liquid. Morning revealed a manageable situation but I can't let this happen again. More stuff to sleep with me inside the sleeping bag at night.
After breakfast I decided it was time for some domestics as it feels quite nice outside. I washed the personal bits of my buffalo saloppets and 4 pairs of socks and some underwear, then hung them out to dry. So far so good. When I checked them they were all frozen solid, like pieces of cardboard. The tent now looks like a laundry but I'm hopeful that I will be able to get things dry. I have applied new skin to my blisters and things are back on the up!!!
Lots of talk about summit strategy but its too early to worry about that yet. Apa Sherpa who is a celebrity in Nepal and with the other Asia Trekking team has summited Everest no less than 14 times has not even left BC yet!!!
Dirk and I plan to move up to ABC in about 3 days for an extended stay. We will trek
up to 7000 meters but will not move onto C3 even if it's established yet as its too early and in very exposed and dangerous place half way up the Lhotse face. Everest is still in a very angry mood and we will take our lead from our Sidiar and Apa Sherpa who understand this mountain more than we will ever do!!
|
|
| |
| Camp
2, Personal Altitude Record = 6540 |
| Updated:
13th April 2005 |
| |
| Location |
Everest
Base Camp |
| Altitude |
5350 |
| Temperature |
-10 |
| Weather
conditions |
Calm clear
skies |
| Wind |
5 |
|
| Personal
profile |
|
| where
10 is excellent and 1 is not good; |
| Overall Health |
9 |
| Diet |
8 |
| Body Temperature |
9 |
| Bowels |
8 |
| Sleep |
9 |
| Mental Attitude |
9 |
| Team relationships |
7 |
| Physical tiredness |
9 |
| Overall Outlook |
10 |
|
| Highlights |
| We
woke to gale force winds and waited until about 9 before
we set off for Camp 2 otherwise known as Advanced base camp
ABC. At first the wind was fierce but it slowly gave way
to periods of intense heat. I plodded on with heavy legs
at a steady pace and felt under control and very good, considering
I was approaching an all time high for me. The beauty of
the place and the enormity of the surrounding mountains
are amazing. Suddenly I hear Dirk break out in a bout of
the Khumbu cough, something we all have due to the extremely
dry air. Unfortunately for Dirk he forgot to squeeze his
bottom at the same time as coughing. I'll leave the rest
to your imagination but toilet tissue became a priority.
I left Dirk to his ablutions and finally met up with him
at Camp 2. At this stage we have just marked out an area
on the Moraine. At 6540 meters this is an altitude record
for me. All in all this had taken us just short of 3 hours,
a very respectable time considering the conditions. After
a short break we headed back down to BC via Camp 1 all exhausted
and a bit sun burned. The sunscreen had frozen overnight
so I had to make do with lip balm.In summary another good
acclimatisation trip. If anything we are bit early with
our timing and I'm bored with dinner conversations and hearing
about mother Russia. Missing home a lot now but try not
to think about it as it just makes me depressed. The game
is still on and there is still everything to play for. |
|
| |
| Goodbye
Quan... |
| Updated:
12th April 2005 |
| |
| Location |
Everest
Camp 1 |
| Altitude |
6060 |
| Temperature |
-20 |
| Weather
conditions |
Gale force
winds |
| Wind |
50 gusting
100+ |
|
| Personal
profile |
|
| where
10 is excellent and 1 is not good; |
| Overall Health |
9 |
| Diet |
6 |
| Body Temperature |
7 |
| Bowels |
7 |
| Sleep |
8 |
| Mental Attitude |
8 |
| Team relationships |
7 |
| Physical tiredness |
7 |
| Overall Outlook |
9 |
|
| Highlights |
Quan
left this morning for home. I'm very happy for him. Going
on would have put him in serious danger and no mountain
is worth that.
The rest of us set of late about 9am for Camp 2. We completed
our ascent in 4 hours, which is good, as it’s the main time
to acclimatise for climbers. However, we were all exhausted
by the effort. The icefall has changed beyond recognition.
Thankfully one of the most dangerous areas has collapsed
releasing maybe hundreds of thousands of tons of ice into
the ice fall. Climbing the ice fall requires maximum concentration
at all times but it really is a beautiful place in its own
way. When we got to C1 it was blowing like mad and we just
had to head for the tents. Each tent is fastened by way
of 18inch metal stays, each tent is then lashed to the other
and finally climbing rope is draped over the roofs of each
tent and anchored by ice skews. This may sound OTT but on
more than one occasion I thought the tent would just explode.
In and amongst the gusts the Sherpas managed to bring us
hot juice, sweet tea and some disgusting trekking food from
Germany which Dirk is ashamed about. I was a bit cold from
underneath as I could not inflate one of my two sleeping
mats and had to rely on a foam mat I bought in Kathmandu.
All seemed well until my Diarrhoea returned. I can tell
you that quote from Scott of the Antarctic came to mind
and it was a most unpleasant experience. Still I was not
the only one suffering in this way, more of that in the
next update. Despite all this I slept pretty well considering
and broke my high altitude sleeping record in the process. |
|
| |
| Big
Storms and Ice Falls |
| Updated:
11th April 2005 |
| |
| Location |
Everest
Base Camp |
| Altitude |
5350 |
| Temperature |
0-5 |
| Weather
conditions |
Strong Winds
occasional Snow |
| Wind |
20-60 |
|
| Personal
profile |
|
| where
10 is excellent and 1 is not good; |
| Overall Health |
9 |
| Diet |
8 |
| Body Temperature |
9 |
| Bowels |
8 |
| Sleep |
9 |
| Mental Attitude |
9 |
| Team relationships |
7 |
| Physical tiredness |
9 |
| Overall Outlook |
10 |
|
| Activities |
Last
night was wild. Gale force winds that threatened to rip
all our tents away. In fact we had to postpone our trip
to C1 as a result of the wind destroying the tents. Also
the long ladder pitch shown in my recent update was completely
destroyed as huge blocks of ice above and below it detached
themselves from the glacier above. According to Sidiar our
Sherpa leader it will be easier and safer now. As a result
Manuel, Dirk and I decided to get some exercise and climbed
up to 5600 meters above the Pumori base camp where we thought
we could get some views of big E. We were not disappointed
the views exposed the ice fall, the top of the Lhotse wall,
the South Col and the whole ridge up to the South Summit,
the Hilary Step and the top itself. You can see in the picture
the winds which swept all the snow off the main face exposed
as an aura around the summit area. Absolutely no go area
for the time being!!!
The trip was also a useful test of my current acclimatisation.
To be honest I felt like it was a walk in the lakes. My
breathing and power seems to be really good. Dirk struggled
a bit and was disappointed given my 15 years his senior
but he was fine really. Manuel looks as though he really
could go all the way without O2. I have considered this
myself but have firmly made a decision to use it as its
not just about helping breathing but also decision making
and avoiding frostbite.
Quan is ready to throw the towel which I think is the right
decision for him. There is no way he will make it and the
ice fall is really getting to him. So I hope he makes the
decision tonight for his own safety.
Base camp is now like a mini town with Yak supplies arriving
every morning. The American's and some other teams are putting
up boundary ropes like they own the place which is really
very unhelpful.
In summary I feel really positive, just a pain not having
access to my own phone and having to rely on the generosity
of others. |
|
| |
At
BC preparing for attempt on
Camp 1 and Camp 2 |
| Updated
: 10th April 2005 (10.26) |
| |
| Location |
Everest
Base Camp |
| Altitude |
5350 |
| Temperature |
0-5 |
| Weather
conditions |
Strong Winds
occasional Snow |
| Wind |
20-40 |
|
| Personal
profile |
|
| where
10 is excellent and 1 is not good; |
| Overall Health |
8 |
| Diet |
8 |
| Body Temperature |
9 |
| Bowels |
7 |
| Sleep |
8 |
| Mental Attitude |
8 |
| Team relationships |
7 |
| Physical tiredness |
8 |
| Overall Outlook |
8 |
|
| Highlights |
Feeling
better this afternoon. I have come to terms with the fact
that the phone is dead.. Its up to those supporting me now
to see if it can be fixed. Spent most of this afternoon
preparing myself for the push upto Camp 1. I think we will
then do a second carry on Tuesday and try to establish camp
2 subject to the weather conditions. Moving my down gear
higher up the mountain will mean sleeping clothed tonight
in my two lighter sleeping bags. Mood is mixed at BC. The
Russians here are rather tactless and I fear world war 3
if they get close to any of the American groups at BC. I
need to keep on the good side of Sergia as he is the one
with the working phone!!!
All of this is a distraction and I'm now re-focused on the
job in hand. I think I'm as strong as anyone here and can
now move about Base Camp without two much physical distress.
Diarrhoea now under control thanks to 4 trips to the loo
last night in howling gales and drifting snow followed by
two tablets of Imodium. I think it was last nights meal
and hopeful its all through me now. I'm forcing food and
hot drinks down me like there's No tomorrow and people that
know me well would be surprised at what I'm eating and drinking.
E.g. Sweet milk tea, extra,extra large bowls of muesli with
hot powder milk.
That's all for now!!! |
|
| |
| Problems
with my comms equipment |
| Updated
: 10th April 2005 (05.12) |
| |
| Location |
Everest
Base Camp |
| Altitude |
5350 |
| Temperature |
-5 -20 |
| Weather
conditions |
Strong Winds
occasional Snow |
| Wind |
20-40 |
|
| Personal
profile |
|
| where
10 is excellent and 1 is not good; |
| Overall Health |
8 |
| Diet |
8 |
| Body Temperature |
8 |
| Bowels |
5 |
| Sleep |
7 |
| Mental Attitude |
8 |
| Team relationships |
7 |
| Physical tiredness |
8 |
| Overall Outlook |
8 |
|
| Activities |
More
like lowlights. Have had a bad 24 hrs.
Thuraya Sat Phone has died. It failed mid transmission and
has not worked since. Looking into alternatives including
borrowing one occasionally as per this transmission.
I have succumbed to a bout of diarrhoea which I hope I now
have under control. Sherpa''s were due to establish camp
1-2 today but have been forced to back off due to a storm
that has been ragging on the upper mountain for 2-3 days
now. Sounds like an aircraft jet engine.
Assuming this storm blows out today we plan to go back up
over the Khumbu ice fall before dawn tomorrow and sleep
over at camp one 6000 meters.
Despite all of this which is either par for the course or
just down right annoying I'm in good shape and itching to
get on with the climb.
Picture is from camp 1 looking
Up towards the western cym and the Lhotse face. More updates
when I'm back at BC on Tuesday hopefully. |
|
| |
| Climb
over 6000m |
| Updated
: 9th April 2005 |
| |
| Location |
Everest
Base Camp |
| Altitude |
5350 |
| Temperature
|
0-20 |
| Weather
conditions |
Cloudy |
| Wind |
5-10 |
|
| Personal
profile |
|
| where
10 is excellent and 1 is not good; |
| Overall Health |
10 |
| Diet |
9 |
| Body Temperature |
9 |
| Bowels |
9 |
| Sleep |
9 |
| Mental Attitude |
10 |
| Team relationships |
8 |
| Physical tiredness |
9 |
| Overall Outlook |
10 |
|
| Activities |
Yesterday
we undertook another major step forward in our acclimatisation
process. We crossed the Khumbu ice fall and climbed up to
6050 metres. This was a trip un -paralleled in my experience.
In total we were climbing for 9 hours solid and we all got
back to base camp exhausted and driven only by sheer will
power. The ice fall is beyond words in terms of complexity
and beauty and the crevasse crossings nothing short of outrageous.
For example 5 ladders strapped together by rope two loose
ropes as hand rails to which you clip your cows tail and
ascender. The crevasse some 40 feet wide and hundreds of
feet deep. As you might image the ladder twists with every
step towards the middle and the whole exercise requires
maximum concentration and control. There are about 20 such
crossings to be made using between 1 and 5 ladders Finally
you exit the ice fall by a vertical ice wall requiring 6
ladders strapped together. Above this lies a land of surreal
beauty a land of relatively low angle smooth and yet sliced
as if by a knife. Two hours later after winding around these
crevices camp 1 which at this stage is a single tent and
a boundary set by some flags. The route to camp 2 Advance
Base Camp ABC is not open. Dirk and I sat for 10 mins took
a few pictures of the Lhotse Face that we will climb in
a few weeks and then headed down passing all the others
except Manuel who was ahead of us by some 10 minutes. Quan
turned back and is heavily depressed. I have offered to
take him up Kalapata 5500 tomorrow to try and help his confidence
or at least allow him to come to terms with the situation'
In summary a big big day. I am now confident I can at least
get to ABC beyond that we shall see!!! |
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