Decision time! To climb or not to climb? That is the question. Weather forecasts are contradictory but general view is that no summit attempt will be possible before 20th and maybe later!
This presents me with I think 3 options!
1. Take the most optimistic forecast and try and persuade a team to have a go!! Realistically I think that this would border on suicide. Even if I could convince a Sherpa team to support such an attempt, it would be considered foolhardy given that there is not a single team above BC at the moment and given the forecast temperature and wind chill the loss of fingers or toes would be almost inevitable!
2. I could call it a day and head for home. I can't tell you just how much this option appeals but to take this option would be reduce to zero the effort, personal discomfort, physical and mental stress, the likes of which I have never experienced before to this extent. To give in now would probably mean it would haunt me forever!!
3. I stick it out, miss my plane home and beg forgiveness from Sue, my family friends and work colleagues who have been so tolerant of me on this personal challenge. At BC like the rest of the people here, I'm slowly wasting away, exercise is becoming more limited as the Ice Fall becomes more dangerous and unstable. So another decent to Dewoche or somewhere similar will be necessary. Depending on who would agree to such a plan will determine whether I can continue to do regular updates! So what to do?
After lunch today we are going to do a detailed analysis of the different weather forecasts and likely scenarios. Following that, I will make my decision!
On a separate note one of the climbers who was hurt in the avalanche at C1 and who turned out not to have a permit, was allegedly fined $20,000 and banned from entering Nepal for 10 years. Ouch!!!
Last night we had quite a bizarre evening watching the Imax Everest film of 1996 with the Sherpas on a portable DVD player. Apart from recording Sherpa Tensings son following his fathers' footsteps, it also recorded the worst tragedy in Everests' history. A timely reminder if I needed one of how serious this climb really is - still the Sherpas seemed to enjoy it!!

Gloom continues around BC. Weather forecasts differ considerably but none are very optimistic demonstrating the instability in the weather patterns and the model variations. Sherpas are also restless and last night there was nearly a major incident as they argued about who held the record for the fastest ascent from BC to Summit. Serge has gone into a deep depression, Luda has a cough which is getting her down. She believes she has caught it from our Liaison officer, a horrible little man who is either snoring like an Elephant with a blocked trunk or spitting sputum everywhere and especially outside Dirks old tent. I complained to Naga and they have now moved his tent away from me!!! Any more and he may find himself needing crevasse rescue techniques. For myself I'm fed up but not suicida,l I feel the end approaching and just need to hang on a few more weeks! My best guess is that we will make a start up the mountain on Sunday or Monday. The ice fall is becoming more unstable every day so crossing this will be a night job and there are very few people crossing it for exercise. Some of the avalanches in the night have been like earthquakes and I'm glad our camp is well away from the resulting debris.
The Jagged Globe guys are very pleasant and I've been borrowing books to pass the time and keep my brain occupied.

The weather window continues to dominate everyone and everything. That and the news that a deal has been struck with a number of teams to fix ropes on the final 900m. We are contributing some ropes, screws and oxygen. I think looking at the weather picture that this may take place on Friday (19th). Anxiety and general pressure is taking its toll on climbers and there have been a few public outbursts. I'm sure we will get our chance and to go just because we want to get it over with will invite disappointment or worse. Those who do not know what it's like to be in high winds on mountains like these invite disasters. I will only go when we get the right signs even if that means waiting a couple more weeks!!

Doom and gloom around BC as earliest weather window looks like after 16th. High winds are due to continue until Friday and then a deep low with lots of snow until early next week. Missing the plane home on the 26th looks an increasing possibility!!
Last night was like being in a war zone with loud bangs and the sound of avalanches every few minutes!! Still better now than when I'm climbing.
Decided to walk up to Pumori Base Camp with Manuel and Serge this morning for some exercise. Fantastic views of Everest North Col South Col Lhotse face and Nuptse on RHS. See pic, Everest is to the left and you can see the plume of snow and moisture being driven from its ridge by the wind!! No place to be!! In BC the weather is quite tolerable but the Sherpas were forced down from C3 this morning and most teams are back in BC.
There is anxiety on everybody's face at the moment but in reality it is still quite early for a summit attempt.
For me looking what's behind us makes looking forward more acceptable.

Weather at base camp is very pleasant and winds high up look less than forecast. There are rumours of a team making an attempt around the end of the week but it's all hearsay. We are talking about making a start Thursday or Friday but it's not confirmed as yet.
All teams are in the same situation and it's simply a waiting game. Impatience now could risk the whole effort as well as increasing the danger, so it's just not an option.
Got a new book today from the Jagged Globe folks called Trojan Odyssey by Clive Cussler so at least I have something new to read.
If we don't make a move soon BC will have completely dissolved the rate at which it's melting!!

Initial euphoria on return to BC has largely disappeared with the latest weather forecast. Earliest ascent looks like around 13th but not for us. I'm a bit worried about my acclimatisation and fitness decaying over this time and so I may go back up to C2 in a few days and await developments there. Unless I can convince Serge to do the same I will be without comms, so no updates I'm afraid
Temp in basecamp has changed. It is now dramatically warmer which makes it much more pleasant but truth is I just want to get this done now and go home!!
So for a time it's going to get hard again!! They say a week is a long time in politics, well I can tell you it's longer here in the mountains. It's very easy (as I have today) to allow myself to get everything out of proportion.
The next few weeks will pass, initially I suspect very slowly, but then at F1 speed as we finally make our attempt to summit. Within a month I'll be home and this will all just seem like a distant memory - so onward and upward it is!!

Back at Costa La Base Camp but with renewed energy and optimism. In fact mentally it's the most positive I've felt since we arrived. Trekking back up in less than half the time it originally took us and with an ease that I haven't felt personally for a very long time.I guess I'm both fully fit and acclimatised!!
The Scottish Highland weather has given way to a sunnier outlook, Manuel and Klaus are safe. The camp 1 avalanche looks like it was a miracle or maybe Everest just reminding us that we need her blessing to set foot on her huge flanks. Turns out some people were up there without permits and are now being hunted down by the Nepalese Liaison Officers!! The attached picture may be one of the villains in disguise. Or he could be a Korean trekker!
My best boots bought in Kathmandu have had it! despite being repaired by the Poo man. I expected more from a reputable brand like Kashmir made by England!!
I have met several nice groups of Trekkers including a group from Jagged Globe who will be hopefully visiting me tomorrow. I've also established contact with some Aussies climbing with Jagged Globe who have invited me over to their place to talk tactics and generally have a cal!
My tent like most of base camp is in need of some serious civil engineering as a result of the sudden increase in temp. As the ice melts around the tent it leaves the tent on an ice platform and exposes / releases large rocks which need to be made safe!! I now have a two foot drop outside my tent door where it used to be raised up.
I shall be scrutinising the weather forecasts when I get them today looking for signs that the weather window is coming but that will mean that the southerly jet perching itself on Everest as I write, will have to move North. Many teams are either rested or resting waiting for the signs.
As it stands, my equipment is all in place including my Oxygen which is mainly up on the South Col at what will be camp 4 when we make our bid.
However there are no fixed ropes above the South Col and teams are playing a sort of stand off game each wanting the other to make a commitment to go first!
So in summary we can do little more now than wait and hope that Everest will be kind to us and let the annual onslaught begin so we can all go home to our loved ones.